The Welcome Home Diner: A Novel by Peggy Lampman (24)

The Recipes

Quiche’s Buttermilk Pancakes with Apple-Maple Syrup and Walnuts

Yield: 12 pancakes, with enough Apple-Maple Syrup* to accommodate

Time: 45 minutes

*Make the syrup before making the pancakes.

Ingredients for Pancakes

• ¾ cup all-purpose flour
• ¾ cup whole-grain pastry flour or whole-wheat flour
• 2 tablespoons light-brown sugar
• 1½ teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 large eggs
• 1¾ cups buttermilk
• 1½ tablespoons melted unsalted butter
• Canola oil, as needed
• Apple-Maple Syrup with Walnuts (recipe follows)

Directions for Pancakes

1. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together both flours, brown sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and kosher salt. In a medium-size bowl, beat together the eggs and buttermilk.
3. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, then stir in the melted butter.
4. Lightly coat a large nonstick griddle or skillet with oil and heat over medium-low heat (325 degrees). Using a ⅓-cup measure, ladle the batter onto the hot skillet. Cook the pancakes 3 to 5 minutes, or until bubbles form on top and the bottom is golden brown. Flip the pancakes and continue cooking until the pancakes are golden brown on both sides.
5. Keep the pancakes warm in the oven as you finish cooking the remaining ones. Reheat the Apple-Maple Syrup and serve over the hot pancakes.

Ingredients for Apple-Maple Syrup with Walnuts

• ½ cup shelled walnuts or pecans
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 3 to 4 large apples (1½ pounds), cored and cut into ½-inch-thick slices*
• ¾ cup pure maple syrup
• ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon (freshly ground preferred)

*Honeycrisp, Winesap, or Braeburn apples are best in this recipe. For uniformity, use an apple corer, then cut the apples lengthwise into thin slices.

Directions for Apple-Maple Syrup

1. In a large, dry sauté pan over medium-low heat, toast the nuts until fragrant and lightly toasted, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the pan and reserve.
2. Melt the butter in the same pan. Sauté the apple slices until just tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in the maple syrup, cinnamon, and toasted nuts. Reserve to serve with pancakes.

Braydon’s Mess of Greens with Turnips and Potlikker

Yield: Enough for a family reunion (16 cups)

Active Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 2 to 2½ hours

Ingredients

• 1½ pounds smoked pork hock or shank
• Kosher salt
• 2½ to 3 pounds turnip greens, bottom tough stem ends removed*
• 2½ to 3 pounds turnips (3 large), peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 3 slices raw bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 3 to 4 cups diced sweet onions
• 1 tablespoon light-brown sugar
• Pepper vinegar, if available, or cider vinegar combined with hot sauce, if desired

*Mustard or collard greens may be substituted for part or all of the turnip greens.

Directions

1. Place the hock or shank in a large pot. Cover with 14 cups (3½ quarts) water. Lightly season the water with the kosher salt, then bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover the pot, then cook 1 hour. (If the pork is not completely submerged in the liquid, you will need to turn it over after 30 minutes of cooking time.)
2. Chop the greens into 1-inch pieces and wash thoroughly. Stir the greens into the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until the greens are just tender, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the type and age of greens used. Add the turnips to the pot and stir them into the greens and pork. Simmer until the turnips are tender, an additional 20 to 30 minutes. (When the greens and turnips are tender, do not discard the cooking liquid; this is the potlikker.)
3. While the greens are simmering, fry the bacon until crisp. Remove the bacon from the pan and reserve, draining on paper towels. Sauté the onions over medium-high heat in the bacon fat. Stir in the brown sugar and cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until golden, soft, and fragrant, about 20 minutes. Finely chop the reserved bacon and combine with the cooked onions.
4. With tongs and a slotted spoon, remove the greens, turnips, and pork from the potlikker. With a sharp knife, remove the pork from the hock or shank. Discard the fat or return it to the potlikker, if reducing (see step 6). Chop the pork.
5. Combine the chopped pork, cooked greens, turnips, and bacon-and-onion mixture. Season to taste with kosher salt, if needed, and pepper vinegar (or cider vinegar combined with hot sauce), to taste, if desired.
6. If desired, reduce the potlikker over a low boil to as strong a potion as desired. Greens and potlikker are delicious served with hoecake or corn bread.

Sam’s Lamb Burger Sliders with Tzatziki and Beetroot Relish

Yield: 16 sliders

Time: 35 minutes, if Tzatziki and relish have been made in advance

Special Nonfood Items Needed

A grill

Note: The Beetroot Relish and Tzatziki may be made up to 2 days in advance.

Ingredients for Lamb Burger Sliders

• 2 pounds ground lamb
• 1 pound ground beef (80/20 grind)
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic
• ½ to 1 cup chopped fresh mint
• 1 heaping teaspoon ground cardamom (optional)
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 16 2-inch slider rolls
• Beetroot Relish (recipe follows)
• Tzatziki (recipe follows)

Directions for Lamb Burger Sliders

1. Gently knead the lamb, beef, garlic, mint, cardamom (if using), kosher salt, and freshly ground pepper together. Cook a small bit of the batch, taste, and adjust the seasonings to your palate.
2. Divide the mixture and form into 16 patties. Oil the grill grates, and heat the gas or charcoal grill to medium-high heat. Grill the burgers 2 to 3 minutes per side for medium rare. Cook 1 to 2 minutes per side longer for medium to well-done, or until the desired level of doneness is reached. Grill the buns until lightly toasted, if desired.
3. Spread one side of the buns with the Beetroot Relish and the other side with Tzatziki. Place the burgers in between the top and bottom buns and serve.

Ingredients for Beetroot Relish

• 3 to 4 medium-size red beets
• ½ medium-size red onion
• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 to 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 2 tablespoons light brown sugar
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Directions for Beetroot Relish

Note: Sauté the leftover washed beet greens in olive oil with a bit of garlic for a savory side dish. Or use them as a topping for crostini or bruschetta and sprinkle with crumbled goat cheese.

1. Wearing plastic gloves, trim the greens and both ends from the beets, peel, and grate, using a box grater. You should have more than 2 packed cups of grated beets. Remove the outer skin from the onion and grate.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar, and brown sugar. Season with the kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir the grated beets and onion into the vinaigrette.

Ingredients for Tzatziki

Note: Leftover Tzatziki makes a wonderful vegetable dip as well as an accompaniment to lamb, swordfish, poultry, and grilled vegetables such as eggplant and zucchini.

• 1 large cucumber, peeled, cut lengthwise, and seeded, then cut into small (1/4-inch) dice (1½ cups)
• 2 tablespoons fresh chopped herbs (dill or mint, or a combination of both)
• 1 scant teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 cup plain (2% or full fat) Greek-style yogurt
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Directions for Tzatziki

1. Place the diced cucumber on paper towels or in a fine-mesh sieve. Lightly sprinkle with the kosher salt. Let drain 15 to 30 minutes, pressing into the towels or sieve with a spoon to release excess moisture.
2. In a medium bowl, combine the cucumber with the herbs, garlic, and yogurt. Season to taste with the kosher salt, if needed, and freshly ground pepper. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Paul’s Great Lakes Crispy Corn Trout

Yield: 4 servings

Time: 20 minutes

Special Nonfood Items Needed

Toothpicks or wooden skewers

Ingredients

• 4 whole trout, 10 to 12 ounces each, boned
• Kosher salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 8 sprigs fresh sage
• ¼ cup ground cornmeal
• ¼ cup all-purpose flour
• ½ cup grape seed oil
• 1 lemon, cut into 8 wedges

Directions

1. Rinse the trout and pat dry. Season the cavity of each fish with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.
2. Place 2 sage leaves in the cavity of each fish. Close the cavity by threading a wooden skewer or toothpick through the flaps.
3. In a small bowl, combine the cornmeal and flour. Dredge both sides of the trout in the mixture.
4. Heat two large skillets over medium-high heat and divide the oil between them. When the fat shimmers, add 2 fish to each skillet and fry until crisp and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Carefully flip the fish with a large, flat spatula. Continue to cook the fish on the other side until just cooked through and golden, about 4 minutes.
5. Transfer the fish to a platter and serve immediately with the lemon wedges.

Sylvia’s Heartbreakers

Yield: 1 dozen jumbo chocolate chip–walnut cookies

Active Time: 40 minutes

Freeze Time: At least 3 hours and up to 6 weeks*

Thaw Time: 1 hour*

Bake Time: 22 minutes

Cool Time: 10 minutes

*Freeze time and a precise thaw time are critical to ensure a creamy chocolate center and crusty cookie exterior.

Ingredients

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 cup cake flour
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cool but not room temperature (your finger should make a slight indention in the butter, but not much more)
• ½ cup sugar
• 1 cup dark-brown sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 2 cups semisweet chocolate chips
• 1¼ cups toasted walnuts,* chopped
• *To toast walnuts: Spread the walnuts in an ungreased pan. Bake in a preheated 350-degree oven 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until brown.

Directions

1. In a medium-size mixing bowl, combine both flours, kosher salt, baking powder, baking soda, and cornstarch. Whisk until well incorporated and free of lumps.
2. Cut the butter into 1-inch pieces. In a standing mixer, cream the butter and both sugars together on medium speed until well combined. Add the eggs and beat 2 to 3 minutes, or until the batter is combined. In ½-cup increments, add the flour mixture to the butter mixture, beating between each addition until the mixture forms a batter.
3. With a spatula, scrape the batter out of the bowl onto a clean, dry pastry table or a cutting board. With your hands, work the chocolate chips and walnuts into the batter.
4. Using a large spoon or ice-cream scoop, form twelve cookie-dough balls. They should weigh about 4½ ounces each and be of uniform size so that they will bake evenly.
5. Wrap each ball individually in wax paper and place the balls in an extra-large ziplock bag or airtight container. Freeze until frozen, about 3 hours or up to 6 weeks. (Frozen cookies may be baked as desired.)
6. When ready to bake, thaw the cookie balls 1 hour (precisely) at room temperature. (If the dough is frozen solid when baked, the inside of the cookies will be too gooey. If the dough is overly thawed, the cookie will be too crumbly after baking.)
7. Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees (convection oven; fan on) or 350 degrees (standard oven; fan off).
8. Line a large cookie sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick silicone baking mat. Unwrap the semifrozen dough balls and place them on the sheet. Bake until golden brown, about 22 minutes. (Baking times may vary, depending on oven temperature variances.) Remove the cookies from the oven and let cool on the baking sheet 10 minutes. Now is the best time to indulge, reveling in all of their heavenly goodness.

Babcia’s Ginger-Molasses Bundt Cake with Lemon Curd

Yield: 1 cake (12 generous slices)

Active Time: 45 minutes

Bake Time: 45 to 55 minutes

Cool Time: 40 minutes

Ingredients

• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon (Vietnamese preferred)
• 2 packed tablespoons grated fresh ginger
• 2 packed tablespoons grated lemon zest
• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
• 1 cup light-brown sugar
• 1 cup boiling water
• 1 cup blackstrap molasses
• 2 teaspoons baking soda
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• Unsalted butter for buttering Bundt pan
• 4 to 6 ounces lemon curd (made from scratch or purchased)
• 1 teaspoon powdered sugar
• Devon clotted cream or whipped cream as desired (optional)

Directions

1. Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.
2. In a medium-size bowl, whisk the flour and cinnamon together until completely combined.
3. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, beat the ginger, lemon zest, butter, and brown sugar together at high speed until the mixture is pale, about 5 minutes.
4. In another large bowl, whisk together the boiling water, molasses, and baking soda. The mixture will foam and expand.
5. Alternate adding the flour mixture and molasses mixture to the butter mixture in three batches, mixing at medium speed until incorporated. Beat in the eggs.
6. Pour into a well-buttered 9- to 10-inch Bundt pan, and bake 45 to 55 minutes, or until a wooden pick inserted into the cake comes out clean.
7. Cool the cake in the pan 10 minutes, then turn the cake out onto a baking rack and cool an additional 30 minutes.
8. Spread the cake with lemon curd. Place powdered sugar in a fine mesh strainer and shake over cake, lightly dusting the top. Serve with clotted cream, if using.

Babcia’s Gołąbki (Stuffed Cabbage or Cabbage Rolls)

Yield: 12–16 cabbage rolls

Active Time: 60 to 70 minutes (Polish grandmother recipes can be time-consuming.)

Bake Time: 60 to 90 minutes

Note: The Stuffing may be made up to 24 hours in advance. The Tomato Sauce may be made up to four days in advance. Traditional recipes for cabbage rolls often substitute a gravy, such as a thin mushroom gravy, for the tomato sauce.

Ingredients

• 1 green cabbage, the largest you can find*
• Kosher salt
• Stuffing (recipe follows)
• Tomato Sauce (recipe follows)
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Chopped fresh dill for garnish (optional)

*You will need 12 to 16 medium-large intact cabbage leaves for the recipe, depending on the size of the leaf. If only small cabbages are available, purchase 2 heads. Some find it easier to blanch the cabbage, remove the leaves, and reblanch the leaves until just tender. Or, instead of boiling, you can freeze your cabbage to soften the leaves. You will need three days to do this: 24 hours to freeze the head and 2 days to thaw it at room temperature.

Directions

1. Position oven rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees.
2. Fill a pot that is large enough to accommodate the cabbage head three-quarters full of heavily salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Place the head in the boiling water and cook 10 to 15 minutes, or until the outermost cabbage leaves are tender enough to remove. Remove the head from the water and drain in a colander. (Do not pour out the water from the pot, as the inner part of the cabbage may need more cooking time.)
3. When the head is cool enough to handle, carefully peel away 12 to 14 of the outermost leaves. (You may have to peel the outer layers first and then return the cabbage to cook if the inner leaves can’t be removed with ease.) With paper towels or a clean cloth, pat the leaves dry.
4. To facilitate rolling the leaf, with a sharp knife, cut out the tough vein from the stem end of the leaf. Depending on the size of the leaf, place 1 to 2 tablespoons of Stuffing in the center of each leaf. Beginning at the stem end, tuck in the sides of the leaf and roll up to completely encase the stuffing. Continue in this manner until you’ve filled 12 to 14 leaves. Any extra filling may be rolled into meatballs and cooked alongside the leaves in the sauce. Coarsely chop the remaining cabbage.
5. Select one or two casserole dishes large enough to accommodate the cabbage rolls and sauce. Place the remaining chopped cabbage in the bottom of the dishes. (This will keep the bottom of the rolls from burning.) Place the cabbage rolls, seam side down, atop the chopped cabbage in the casserole(s). Ladle the prepared Tomato Sauce over all the cabbage rolls, reserving additional sauce to spoon over the rolls after they’ve baked. Cover with nonstick foil or foil coated with cooking oil spray. This will keep the foil from sticking to the sauce.
6. Bake the rolls 60 to 90 minutes, or until the cabbage rolls can be pierced with a fork.
7. When the rolls have finished cooking, remove the stuffed cabbage leaves from the pan carefully with a spatula. Top the rolls with remaining warmed Tomato Sauce, freshly ground pepper, and chopped dill (if using). Serve hot. The rolls may be refrigerated 4 days or frozen up to 3 months and reheated before serving. Delicious served with mashed potatoes.

Ingredients for Stuffing

• 1 large egg
• ¾ pound ground beef (80/20 grind)
• ½ pound ground pork
• 1 cup cooked long-grain brown rice*
• ¼ cup minced shallot or onion
• 2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic
• 3 heaping tablespoons chopped fresh dill
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds (optional but recommended)
• ¾ cup sauerkraut, rinsed, drained, and patted dry**
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• ½ tablespoon Hungarian paprika
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

*Don’t use quick-cooking (“instant”) rice. The long-grain brown rice gives the Stuffing texture without becoming mushy; ⅓ cup dry rice yields about 1 cup cooked rice. Cook the rice in chicken stock and butter for added flavor.

**Sauerkraut varies widely in flavor and texture. I select the best available refrigerated kraut.

Directions for Stuffing

1. In a large bowl, beat the egg.
2. With a large spoon or fork, mix in both ground meats, cooked rice, minced shallot or onion, garlic, chopped dill, fennel seeds (if using), sauerkraut, tomato paste, paprika, kosher salt, and freshly ground pepper.* Refrigerate until ready to use. The mixture may be made up to 24 hours in advance.

*To test the seasoning of the meat, fry up a small portion in a skillet or pop it in the microwave till it’s thoroughly cooked. Taste, then add additional salt and pepper, as desired.

Ingredients for Tomato Sauce

• 28 ounces canned tomato sauce
• 14 ounces canned diced tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 to 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
• 2 to 3 tablespoons light-brown sugar
• 2 teaspoons minced fresh garlic
• ½ teaspoon ground allspice or cinnamon (freshly grated preferred)

Directions for Tomato Sauce

1. In a medium-size saucepan, combine the tomato sauce, diced tomatoes, tomato paste, 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the brown sugar, the garlic, and allspice. Bring to a low boil, then reduce to a simmer.
2. Simmer 20 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season to taste with additional vinegar or brown sugar, if desired. The Tomato Sauce may be made up to 4 days in advance.

Sylvia’s White and Dark Chocolate–Covered Strawberries

Yield: 16 to 22 chocolate-dipped strawberries

Active Time: 35 minutes

Time for Chocolate to Harden: 30 to 45 minutes

Ingredients

• 4 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
• 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
• 3 ounces white chocolate, chopped
• 1 pound (16 to 20) ripe strawberries with stems, washed and dried

Directions

1. Combine the semisweet and bittersweet chocolate in a microwave-safe dish. Microwave at 50 percent power (low to medium setting) 30 seconds, then remove and stir. Return to the microwave and cook an additional 15-30 seconds, then remove and stir again. Keep doing this in 15-30-second increments until the chocolate is smooth and melted but not burned. (Alternately, the chocolate may be melted in a double boiler over simmering water.)
2. Line a sheet pan with parchment or wax paper. Holding a strawberry by the stem, swirl the berry in the chocolate, leaving a bit of red exposed at the top beneath the stem, and allow the excess chocolate to drip back into the bowl. Lay the strawberry on the parchment or wax paper. Repeat with the remaining strawberries.
3. Melt the white chocolate, per step 1. Dip the prongs of a fork into the white chocolate, then drizzle it over the dark chocolate–covered strawberries, swirling and making a pattern. (For more control, use a squirt bottle. Or place melted chocolate in a plastic bag, then cut a small piece from a bottom corner.)
4. Allow the chocolate to harden at room temperature, then refrigerate the strawberries until ready to enjoy.

Note: Keep the strawberries refrigerated or in a cool place, loosely covered. Sylvia has kept them refrigerated for several days with good results, but the texture of the berry suffers a bit. She recommends serving them within 12 hours after the chocolate hardens.

Granny’s Skillet-Fried Chicken

Yield: 7 to 8 pieces

Active Time: 30 minutes

Dry Rub Time: 12 to 24 hours

Fry Time: 22 to 25 minutes

Notes: Tastes in sodium vary. The longer the meat sits in the rub, the saltier it will taste. You may want to reduce the salt in the recipe, especially if the chicken sits in the rub more than 10 hours. Make sure the pieces are of similar size and not too large; otherwise the chicken will burn before the meat is cooked through. Select chicken (particularly the breast), ensuring the skin covers the flesh. I use air-chilled chicken: 4 medium-size split breasts and 4 medium-size thighs, selected from a full-service counter. Full-fat buttermilk makes the skin darken too soon. If you can’t find low fat, mix ½ cup 2 percent milk with ½ cup buttermilk.

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• 2 tablespoons crushed dried basil, divided
• 2½ teaspoons plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons lemon pepper, divided
• 2 teaspoons cayenne, divided
• 4 to 5 pounds chicken pieces, bone in, skin attached
• 1 large egg
• 1 cup low-fat buttermilk (see Notes above)
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 scant tablespoon cornstarch
• About 4 cups peanut oil or vegetable shortening, plus more as needed

Directions

1. To make a rub, combine the garlic powder with 1 tablespoon of the basil, 2½ teaspoons of the kosher salt, 1 tablespoon of the lemon pepper, and 1 teaspoon of the cayenne. Rub the mixture over the chicken and cover. Refrigerate at least 10 hours and up to 24.
2. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature, about 1 to 1½ hours.
3. In a large bowl, whisk the egg into the buttermilk. In a wide-mouth gallon-size ziplock bag or baking dish, combine the flour, cornstarch, and the remaining basil, kosher salt, lemon pepper, and cayenne.
4. Add enough oil or shortening to a 12-inch cast-iron or non-stick skillet to ¾-inch depth. (Granny much prefers using her well-seasoned cast iron skillet.) Heat the fat until a drop of flour sizzles in the skillet, or a thermometer reads 300 to 325 degrees.
5. While the fat is heating, dip the chicken pieces in the buttermilk mixture, allowing the excess to drip back into the bowl. Dredge the pieces in the flour mixture, completely coating the skin.
6. Cooking in batches, place the pieces, meaty side down, in the hot fat and fry 11 to 15 minutes, or until deep golden brown; adjust the heat, if necessary, so the chicken doesn’t brown too quickly, occasionally moving the pieces with tongs, so they fry evenly. Flip the pieces and cook an additional 10 minutes, or until the meat is white at the bone (165 degrees for breasts, 175 degrees for legs and thighs). Lift the pieces from the skillet, letting the excess oil drip back into the skillet, then drain the pieces on a rack or triple layer of paper towels.